City Guide: Vienna for Beginners
If you are not Austrian, chances are pretty high you didn't know Vienna has been voted the world's best city to live in. For the 9th time running, the Austrian capital beat metropolises as great as New York, London or Zürich. While there are countless awesome things to see and do around here, I started to work on a list of my personal gems you should not miss when you are in town for the very first time.
“The streets of Vienna are paved with culture; the streets of other cities are paved with asphalt.” Karl Krauss
As one of Austria’s most trenchant journalists, Krauss was an unapologetic cynic. However, his quote certainly represents the essence of what Vienna feels like to me. The city’s imperial palaces, opulent museums and lavish parks speak history with stunning architecture and exceptional art as its epitome that still leave me breathless today. Whenever I walk the century-old streets of the Old Town, see the golden splendor of the “Secession”, or find myself attending a “Matinée” hosted by one of the greatest musicians in the world, I feel pretty lucky to call Vienna my home.
Culturally speaking, there is no doubt Vienna has a lot to offer. Just think of six centuries of monarchy led by the Habsburgs – Europe’s most powerful ruling dynasty, with Vienna representing the capital. This hegemony coins the Viennese flair until today. But don’t be fooled to believe Vienna is an outdated relic of bygone times. While some might perceive Austria as a little behind (in well…everything), Modernism is definitely present. The trained eye may notice an affinity to set certain trends in all kinds of arts. Besides functioning as the epicenter of classical music, world-famous opera, theatre productions and renowned art, film, and music festivals, Vienna proofs its international appeal in various ways. Housing a headquarter of the United Nations and being “the gate to Eastern Europe”, Vienna is also a hotspot for food enthusiasts of all genres. Whether you are into world class fine dining, love simple but hipster Burger joints or crave traditional Austrian cuisine (I see you, Wiener Schnitzel), Vienna certainly won’t let you down.
The Struggle Is Real
In the affluence of choices, it’s crucial to set priorities. The following guide includes my architectural favorites, culinary temples and gorgeous shopping facilities. All of which are easily accessible by foot and can be done in one day (or extended to several days, depending on your preferences.)
Start the day at Café Prückel where you can enjoy a classic Viennese breakfast surrounded by lovely interior from the 1950s. It’s located on the “Ring” and therefore a perfect spot to start your walking tour. Some of the most important sights are located here such as the Parlament, Rathaus, Burgtheater, University of Vienna, MAK, Staatsoper, Kunsthistorisches Museum and Naturhistorisches Museum. Once you are done, you will find one of Vienna’s most visited landmarks only a stone’s throw away: the Stephansdom. With up to ten masses on Sundays, this church is not only one of the busiest, it is also one of the most important gothic edifices in Austria. In the mood to see the dome from above? Go to “Steffl”, a close-by department store. Head to its Sky Bar on the top floor and enjoy the view with a drink in your hand.
Afterwards, stroll down the “Graben” passing luxury boutiques with the likes of Hermes, Cartier as well as Zara and H&M (the latter is situated in the beautiful department store “Braun & Co.” and is the world’s only H&M store protected as a historic monument). Next, wander towards “Kohlmarkt” and make a stop at “Demel” to experience another pillar of Viennese culture: coffee and cakes. Even if you’re not a fan of sweet sensations, Demel’s stunning Rococo interior with its open bakery is always worth a visit. At the end of the street, you will see “Michaelerplatz” with the “Hofburg” behind. As the former Habsburg residence, the Hofburg now houses the residence of the Austrian Federal President. Also, in walking distance is the Albertina Museum. This unique collection features paintings by Monet, Picasso as well as many other European artists pioneering in modern and contemporary art.
In need for a quick bite surrounded by gorgeous greenery? Check out the “Burggarten” and relax at the “Palmenhaus” located behind Albertina. This institution is a lovely brasserie and an excellent spot for both refueling and people watching. Depending on your energy levels head to “Neubaugasse” either by walking (approx. 25 mins) or take the subway line U3 which will get you there in about 15 mins. Once you arrived you will find yourself in the midst of Vienna’s shopping area “Mariahilfer Straße”. If you are not a fan of the buzz, meander down to the middle of Neubaugasse and explore small independent fashion boutiques such as WeBandits or classic thrift stores like Bootik 54. Feeling your hipster self wants to break free? Go to Qwstion or Commerc Store on close-by Westbahnstraße or do go for high end second hand shopping at Burggasse 24.
To finish off the day take the subway to end up at “Donaukanal” (subway station Schwedenplatz). It’s one of Vienna’s urban beach areas and a great place to enjoy the sunset by the water. Grab a drink at Tel Aviv Beach Bar and take it all in. By now you might realize that the city’s contrasts are what makes Vienna special. In case you are not feeling Viennese yet, a midnight snack called “Käsekrainer” will do the job. This cheese-filled hot dog sausage not only unites all demographic groups since it was invented. As the incarnation of Viennese spirit, it is perfect for almost any life situation – whether it’s the go-to-snack before attending the Viennese Opera Ball or the last stop after a casual night out.